Local Area of Burgundy
The main reason that we bought our own house here nearly 30 years ago was to live near a river &/or a canal (& we actually managed both!) so where better to go than Burgundy which is blessed with many rivers and canals of which the most notable in our area are the River Yonne and the Canal du Nivernais.
They meander quietly through the countryside, often criss-crossing or side by side and frequently joining forces to give long stretches of shimmering navigation rich with fish, wild aquatic life & water fowl. It is also rich in bird life and flora & fauna and the famous escargots which are jealously protected. We think it’s one the most peaceful, natural and unspoilt area of France we’ve seen and not overrun with tourists who mainly cruise through on the canal.
The attractions are varied and numerous. Vezelay, (one of our clients called it “Heart Attack Hill”) has fabulous views from the Basilica where Richard the Lionheart lead the 3rd crusade and Thomas Becket was in exile for many years. If you manage to be there when the monks are singing/chanting then you are in for a real treat. It makes the hairs at the back of your neck stand up. There are also some interesting shops and excellent restaurants with a famous Michelin 3* in a nearby village if you are feeling flush.
There are also plenty of wine growers in the area, some good, some unbelievably good! and usually the local supermarkets stock local wine that you wouldn’t be able to get anywhere else and they are well worth a try. Chablis is the most prestigious in the area and the village itself has a very good market on a Sunday morning. Other notable wines to be found are in Irancy, St Bris & Coulanges la Vineuse.
Auxerre is a delightful old city with many lovely shops and the famous cathedral and abbey that stand guard over the port and river. It also has a very large out of town shopping area, not so much a “mall” style but rather individual shops gathered on one place.
Some of the most unusual activities to be seen occur in the towns where the canal & river pass through. There are a number of different aquatic sports including water jousting where 2 teams row towards each other with their jouster at the bow trying to push their opponent into the water with something that looks like a giant cottonwool bud!
One of the most interesting activities in this area are the fascinating Vide Greniers (literally empty the loft) that take place usually on Sundays all over Burgundy during the summer months. I guess they are the equivalent of our car boot sales but much more interesting as they take over all the streets and back roads of the village they are in. Try one! You will find them advertised all over the place, mainly at the roadside and it’s a great way to find other small villages which are delightfully different. It is how we discovered the charms of Druyes les Belles Fontaines, Chevroches and Asnois to which we return frequently!
Eating out…. what can we say. This is Burgundy and wherever you go there are places to eat that suite every pocket, one of our favourites near by has just 4 tables inside with four 4-course menus priced between €12 - €18. However, be warned, sometimes they are not always open every day and some local restaurants are only open at lunchtime. An unusual location that you may not think of immediately are railway stations of a reasonable size like Auxerre which is always busy with a very efficient service and is good value for money.
Burgundy is a delight waiting to be discovered and we hope that you will enjoy exploring it as much as we do.